Today in WW II: 23 Jul 1940 American Bantam and Willys-Overland submit the only two bids for the Quartermaster Corps light reconnaissance and command cars, the origin of the military jeep.  More 
23 Jul 1941 Original World War II contract for jeeps awarded to Willys with Ford added Nov 1941 to increase production.
23 Jul 1945 Submarine USS Barb [SS-220] destroys a Japanese locomotive and supply train at Patience Bay off the coast of Karafuto, Japan, the only known such attack by a submarine.
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Installing Turn Signals into an M37

Here are instructions for installation of civilian stop/tail/ and turn lights into an M-37 3/4 ton truck (or, suitably modified, any other similar 24V vehicle). These lights add quite a margin of safety when operating your truck, over the original. However, I designed this set-up so that nothing original needs to be removed, and the system here can be easily removed and re-installed, if desired. When the lamps of this system are removed, none of the modifications are easily spotted. These part numbers are for a 24V system, however, all of the parts have a 12V equivalent.

Please E-mail me about any problems you run into, and with any comments (positive or negative) you have. I appreciate all feedback.

Good luck,
Harris Neil

Parts List

Wire: 10 gauge, stranded copper wire: (Note: These colors correspond to those on a Signal Stat®, 900 series, 7 wire switch.)

  • Purple, 40 feet
  • Gray, 30 feet
  • Green, 25 feet
  • Black, 25 feet
  • Red, 20 feet
  • Black/gray, 15 feet

The wire lengths given here are much longer than actually needed. But stretching just doesn't work well.

Switch: 7-wire turn signal switch (such as Signal-Stat® Model 900)

Other parts:

  1. 1, 24V pilot bulb (#356)
  2. 3 spade connectors (10 gauge)
  3. 6 "T" taps (10 gauge)
  4. 13 butt splices. I have used the new screw together type, called Posi-Lock® Connectors. These are expensive, but well worth it, as they make a very positive connection, and can be disconnected and re-connected. This is important if you would like to remove these lights for a show or rally. They also allow you to easily connect wires of unequal size, which this project requires.
  5. Several feet of plastic wire loom (1/2" and ¾" diameter)
  6. 1, 24V turn signal flasher (Signal-Stat® #87114)
  7. 2 inches of foam double stick tape.
  8. 2, Single face, turn signal/marker lamps, with black housing, Grote®, #53052; (These only come with red lenses)
  9. 2, Amber lenses, (Grote®, #91583)
  10. 2, 24V, dual filament bulbs, (#1662)
  11. 2, Black metal tail lamp brackets with grommets (Grote® #40720)
  12. 2, 24V, sealed round stop/tail/turn lamps (Grote® #40209R) with pigtail (Grote® #94993)
  13. 4, 7/16" x 1" bolts, with flat washers, lock washers, and nuts
  14. A handful of cable ties


Cut a 30 foot length of the purple wire. Mark one end as the "front". Tap the remaining 10feet of purple wire to it, at a point 14 feet from the front. The point of this tap will be referred to as the "midpoint" from here on out. Run the 10 foot spur of purple wire off to one side.

Start at the front of your harness, and run the green wire along the purple to the midpoint. Secure it to the purple wire with tape temporarily, in just enough spots to keep them together. Leave the remaining 11 feet free, and run it off to the opposite side as your purple spur. Starting a point 5 feet from the front, run your red wire parallel to your green. Tape it to the green. Starting at the rear of the purple wire, run your gray wire to the mid-point, then along the red and green. Start at a point 5 feet from the rear, and run your black wire parallel to the gray. Finally, start at the end of the four wire spur. Run your black/gray wire to the midpoint. Leave the remainder free from the midpoint.

All parallel wires should be joined with tape occasionally.


If your truck has a winch, there are two holes in the lower edge of the radiator grill (brush guard). If you have no winch, remove the bolts that secure the bottom of the radiator grill to the top of the lower grill. Drill these holes out to 7/16". Replace the 1157 bulbs in your front lamps with 1662 24V bulbs, then install the amber lenses, in place of the red. Install the lamps into the holes you just drilled, then install the included nut on the stud of each. The lower two, of the three screws that secure the lenses will probably be touching the grill struts.

Take the metal brackets, for the rear lights. Use them as a pattern to mark and punch spots in the flange of sheet metal, parallel to the ground, below the tailgate. Take care to put these holes far enough forward, so the washers and nuts will clear the inner surface of vertical sheet metal, above the flange. These brackets should be installed as far as possible to their respective sides. Insert the bolts up, through the brackets, and the holes. Secure with the flat washers, lockwashers, and nuts. Place the grommets into the brackets, and install the lamps. Despite the fact that the lamps have a side marked "TOP", turn that side down. This will leave the receptacle for the pigtail toward the top. Snap the pigtail in place, and secure the white wire from them under one of the bracket nuts, to ground the lamp.


Open the top of the turn signal switch, and replace the standard 12V bulb with the #356, 24V bulb, for the indicator lights. Install the turn signal switch, on the steering column, as per the instructions that accompany it. Install a spade connector on the blue and yellow wires of the switch. Feed the wires through the dash, next to the steering column. Use wire loom as necessary between the switch and the opening in the dash.

Install the flasher, with the prongs facing up on the top of the flange of sheet metal, created by the edge of the bottom of the dash being bent parallel with the ground. Place the flasher below the steering column on this flange. Affix the foam double-sided tape to the bottom of the flasher, but do not peal the backing from the other side yet.

Using a "T" tap, install a piece of wire into the switched side of your main ignition switched. Install a butt splice on the other end. I installed an in-line fuse in this wire as well.

Do not plug the spade connectors onto the flasher yet. Wait until the rest of the wiring is in place.


Take the mid-point of your wiring harness under your truck, at a point on the passenger side frame rail. Temporarily secure the midpoint to the frame there.

Throughout the wiring process, use wire loom as needed to protect your harness from any sharp edges, and at any points where it passes through frame openings.

Take the spur, consisting of the black, red, green, gray, and black/gray wires, toward the engine compartment, then feed it through the firewall. You can either use one of the pre-existing holes for the wiring, or drill a new hole, and fit it with a grommet. Run these wires under your dash, and affix them to the corresponding wires of the switch.

Back under the vehicle, take the black/gray wire, which is loose. Locate the wire from your stop light switch to the original stop light. It runs from the switch, near the brake pedal, under the truck, across a cross member, to the passenger side of the frame. If you have any doubt as to whether you have the right wire, insert a straight pin through the insulation, then test it with a meter. It should be dead, until the brake pedal is depressed (Make sure your stop lights are switched on at the dash switch). Once you've located it, trim the black/gray wire to length, and "T" tap it to the stop light wire, at the passenger side frame rail.

Next, run the 10 foot, purple wire spur across the frame cross member, then up the driver's side frame rail to the dimmer switch. Locate the incoming headlight power wire (Not either the high or low beam only switch output). Trim the wire to length, and "T" tap to the headlight power.

Now, take your rear purple, black and gray wires. Run them along the passenger side frame rail, to the rear of the truck. This will entail threading them between the frame, and the passenger side of the fuel tank, then out, in the vicinity of your newly installed passenger side rear lamp. Trim the black wire to length, and use a Posi-lock connector to connect it to the lamp. "T" tap a short (3" is plenty) spur into the purple wire; and Posi- lock this to the lamp as well. Continue the purple and gray wires to the Driver's side lamp, trim to length, and Posi-lock both to the appropriate wires of that lamp's pigtail.

Take the red, green and front purple bundle, to the front end of the truck, along the passenger side frame rail. It is easiest to run up into the engine compartment, and then back out, at the front of the passenger side splashguard. I went out through existing gaps. However, it would probably look nicer, and lessen the chance of damage to the wires, if you drilled a hole in the splashguard, and installed a grommet for the wires to pass through. From this point on, the wires should be in wire loom, both to protect them, and to maintain the aesthetics. Trim the red wire to length, and Posi-lock it to the passenger side front lamp, red wire. . At the proper point, "T" tap into the purple wire, run another 3" spur, and Posi-lock that to the black wire of the passenger side lamp. Run the green, and remaining purple wires, down and along the cross member below the radiator, then up to the driver's side lamp. Be very aware of the PTO drive shaft, if you have a winch. Trim both to length and Posi-lock the green to the left lamp's red wire, and the purple to the lamp's black wire.


Go back to the cab, and connect the two wires from the turn signal switch, to their appropriate spade fittings on the flasher. Then connect the spade from your main power to the flasher. Now peal off the backing on the two-sided tape, and place the flasher on the metal edge.

Your system is now complete. With your headlights on, you should have rear taillights, and front marker lights. Turn signals are self-explanatory. With the stop light switch, or the headlights on, you should have brake lights. If everything tests satisfactorily, use cable ties, and wire loom to put the finishing touches on your system.

By using the Posi-lock connectors, if you ever desire to return your truck to military lighting only, you can disconnect the lamps, and un-bolt them from the truck, and re-connect them easily, with the same connectors.